/Substance and style important considerations when picking wooden furniture

Substance and style important considerations when picking wooden furniture

by Jean Greeson and Richard Fast, COLUMNISTS
Dear Jean and Richard: How do you determine what makes good wooden furniture? — Jeremie, Arden


Richard: Hi, Jeremie. Wow, this is another topic so involved it’s hard to know where to begin. First, in home furnishings lingo, we call this category “case goods” because unless it’s a table, chair or headboard, wooden furniture usually begins with a case. A chest or dresser, for example, is essentially a wooden box (the case) with legs. So, the first thing to look for is how well that case is constructed. Begin by making sure it doesn’t give way when you push against it.

Jean: Begin by pushing on it? I’m sorry, Richard, but the first thing you look for is a beautiful piece of furniture — one that calls to you or fits into your design scheme. Then you check out the construction.

Richard: Well, maybe that’s true, but I caution that you should not be dazzled by a pretty style or finish at the expense of craftsmanship. My suggestion is to pull a drawer completely out of the dresser or chest and examine it. Has the manufacturer dovetailed the joints? Does the drawer bottom have glue blocks (bracing) underneath for enhanced strength? Are the guides secured with screws rather than staples? One premium feature of quality case goods is dustproofing — a sheet of thin plywood or even cardboard between drawers to prevent an errant sock or earring from dropping into the drawer below it.

Jean: And make sure the inside drawer bottom is smooth. A bottom made of wood is preferred, but it should be well-sanded (some are even waxed) to protect delicate clothes from snagging. Beyond construction techniques, the choice of wood used to build the case is important. Choose hardwood over pine and avoid pieces that employ composition materials in drawer fronts and tops. Veneered sides crafted from man-made products are usually OK — they don’t warp as easily.

Richard: I agree with Jean about the pine, especially on workaday surfaces like tabletops. Not only is it soft and easily damaged, but large pine surfaces will tend to swell or warp, and often the knots will bleed through a painted finish. Pine furniture is often from the United States, but don’t fear products made outside our country. The fact is, most manufactured case goods are now made in Asia, most often in China, and the Chinese have become pretty good craftsmen.

Jean: OK, let’s assume the craftsmanship passes your critique. Examine the finish, and make sure the color is even and the surfaces fingernail-polish hard, but not too thick. You’re buying furniture, not a candied apple. Unless it’s a painted finish, you should be able to see the grain clearly — not obscured by heavy pigments. Sometimes the difference between a good piece and a great one is in the finish. In furniture, substance and style are both important!

These are the opinions of nationally recognized interior design team Jean Greeson and Richard Fast, who offer advice and services from their studio in Asheville’s River Arts District at 352 Depot St. Greeson & Fast Design can be reached at 252-0400 or www.GreesonAndFast.com.